Manolo continues to revel in bottningsmetoder. This week the becksömsydda, who moved from functional pjäxkonstruktion that today constitute a hallmark of flamboyant Italian shoe manufacturer.
It is said that the Italian pjäxtillverkare around the town of Montebelluna downloaded this largely watertight construction from the Norwegian manufacturer sometime in the 1800 ‘s. Many Italian manufacturers call it actually even today for Costruzione Norvegese.
As bottningsmetod includes the becksömsydda a range of torque. As well as the Goodyear welted construction snapped first the shoe’s upper with drawing the release of sock by Staples. Then attached sock and shoe’s upper edge that runs around the shoe. For this design used a somewhat thicker stripe, also called storm rand. The feature of the design is that Rand edge is folded up along with the shoe’s side, unlike the Goodyear welted construction where RAND edge is hidden under the shoe’s upper. Similarly, the becksömsydda stands out for the construction from the Goodyear welted by outersole is attached in both the edge and the shoe’s upper. All in all, this gives a more durable than water construction, which prevents water from both the ground and the side from seeping into the sock.
Today the structure is visible mainly among Italian producers succeeded in making the rugged design, with two visible seams along the side (becksöm and avlappssöm), a stylistically sought-after detail. What makes that many manufacturers are hesitant design is that it is hugely labour-and time-consuming, making the price tag easily skyrocket. Mantellassi-shoes in the picture, for example, requires no less than 600 stitches that all sewn by hand.
There are machines that manage to sew the same elements, but which is now very rare. This type of machinery must actually have existed in Sweden before the footwear industry went to the grave. If not Sweden that shoe nation we must re-establish their status skofantaster to a large extent, be content with these beautiful footwear from Italy and southern Europe. Which is not totally wrong …