Choose quality shoes is important, but there is not that what counts! You regularly ask us which pair to choose for what occasion.
There are several families of dress shoes, all do not work with the same outfit. Choose her shoes allows you to make a formal touch to an outfit or, conversely, to gain relaxation. To you to take ownership of the codes to better reinterpret.
No beautiful shoes without quality materials
Always keep in mind that the beauty of a pair depends on its quality. All this is explained in our guide to choose her shoes.
A perfectly manufactured product, with quality materials, is beautiful no matter what. Conversely, a poor quality product is immediately default to your outfit.
Before you even talk about style, be sure to have a sewn assembly or sewn-glued, whether Blake, Goodyear / welted, a Norwegian sewn … Consistency and durability are two masters words!
For the material, choose a well-tanned leather with deep shade, a nice touch and sensual but not particularly marked folds at the first step!
On prices, with some exceptions, it is difficult to find a shoe of high quality, durable and well made, less than 200 € (excluding sales)1.
Add to that fifty euros for a pair of shoe trees, a cleansing milk, a nourishing / tinting cream and a polish, and you will make an investment you will not regret!
Attention cult video Olga Berluti explains his soft voice how to care for your shoes. A great moment of sensuality …
If you are really short financially, better wait for the sales … Although prices are unbeatable, you will not find anything of lasting quality or in Eram, Gemo, Halle or other brands of general circulation.
The most classic: the Richelieu / Oxford Men
Originally, the Richelieu are extremely formal and noble shoes. This is the ultimate model to wear with a suit . Its elegance is its great finesse , in the purity of its lines. We recognize the Richelieu to two things:
- No flaps. The stem simply split, departs to let the foot at the floor: one speaks of closed lacing. When laced, the shoe thus find a fine line, to the nearest foot.
- A Blake mounting or the like, that is to say without welted, the outer seams could weigh down the line of the shoe.
This video at John Lobb shows the manufacture of a shoe. It plays a lot on the artistic dimension, lingering on the beauty of movement, the clean lines, beautiful materials … Men have a particular relationship to shoes!
Some perforated patterns and have a thicker sole are called “brogues” , they also come in derby. Several contemporary interpretations of the Richelieu divert their first formal use, with many twists that bring novelty.
How to wear Richelieu?
Better to start gently and respect the codes of formal elegance . Diversions are possible, but this is truly a very formal dress that Richelieu are best developed.
For a more casual atmosphere, models worked in a less strict sense offer good proposals. Jeans and chinos will agree very well with Richelieu weekend on one condition: avoid the pair of Richelieu all black, all (too) easy!
Where to find Richelieu?
- €: Bexley offers models from 139 €, but the leather tends to mark the pleat. Orban’s is an extremely interesting alternative!
- €€: Seventh width has beautiful models at around € 250.
- €€€: Berluti is one of the kings of the Richelieu, offering exceptional enough ice patinas… through more than 1,500 €. More affordable: Altan or Carmina .
The formal alternative: the derby Men
Richelieu rival endless, the derby trying to win the game despite their elegant shoe lacing rough paw.
Unlike the first, they are in fact composed of two separate panels closed by laces, expanding the line of shoes. No wonder that a lot of derby are built in Goodyear, thickness and width of the sole while being consistent with the peasant origins of this shoe.
This is not to say they lack elegance, quite the contrary! I would tend to say that they are symptomatic of a very modern elegance, comfort and style.
The derby is authorized rightly few deviations from smooth leather for their occasionally prefer grained leathers, more rustic look, or velvet leather, subtly casual.
How to Wear derby?
The suede models lend themselves to a rather casual universe .
However, the smooth leather models, even with large soles work well with pants flannel.
Where the derby?
- €: Duggers of London starts from £ 79, or begin to troubleshoot.
- €€: Bowen has robust and classic models (almost retro) around 300 €. Grenson starts at 230 €.
- €€€: Church , despite a decline of predictable quality since its acquisition by Prada, has beautiful rooms from € 500. Weston and his half-width model also stand out as essential.
Most Italian: the double-loop
Somewhat forgotten in the 2000s, the monk straps comeback in recent seasons, reaffirming their status pillar of male shoes.
A flap with one or more metal loops comes to replace the traditional lacing, offering an alternative aesthetic and above all very practical.
Unlike the dual-loop model, the simplest model is shunned by young people, who are still too conservative and outdated.
Footwear conventional loop are connected in Blake (for more finesse), and often have a stretch, that is to say a patch of leather sewn to the end of the shoe (as above) .
This is a particularly stylish shoe that can easily lend itself to an informal use.
Conventional versions are enough to bring an original touch to an outfit, especially in a casual setting, but the double loops of success led some designers to rethink. The sole, style and colors are then subject to various interpretations: suede leather, soles colorful rubber …
How to wear double-buckled shoes?
Obviously, they go great with a suit, even if it is on a section slightly retro (cross jacket, pattern Prince of Wales …).
In casual version is just as simple. You can wear classic double buckles with jeans and even a T-shirt, or opt for a more casual pair.
Where to find double loops?
- €: Meermin offers an excellent price / quality ratio for this type of shoes in particular, from 160 €.
- €€: The young French brand Jacques & Demeter, which I tested a pair of double loops , offers a product of high quality for a much lower price than those in luxury. About 350 €.
- €€€: Crockett & Jones, with classical forms but performed quite well in 520 €.
The more preppy: moccasins / loafers for men
Among the shoes, they are the most likely clivants, although they are very present. The public seems to gradually return it comfortable, lightweight, simple and elegant.
Moccasins never have laces and can have a heel: it is also often mounted on a leather sole.Some are known for their sole rubber nub, sometimes called drivers1.
There is also a mounting method called “moccasin” or “tubular”, through which the leather is “wrapped” around the foot: the piece of leather used to make the soles back on the sides of the shoe, resulting in these famous recognizable seams. A whole program.
How to wear moccasins?
The three-piece combo pattern Prince of Wales, or tuxedo, and moccasins possible. For those who do not have the opportunity to walk the red carpet of the Oscars, there is still hope.
In casual, shirt and jeans will do nicely, allowing to stand without overdoing it.
In formal attire, we can make cool assemblies from the trio blazer / jacket / tie, by abandoning the suit pants in favor of a pleated chino. For once, we have a distinguished dress remains easy to wear.
- €: Sebago, from 130 €.
- €€: Velasca, very Italian models from 200 €.
- €€€:Salvatore Ferragamo, home to the incredible story I hope to tell you soon, starts from 450 €.
The more English: the chelsea boot for man
It is a fine and refined model, consisting of a single large leather patch on the front, recognizable by the elastic band at the lateral ankle.
It is also interesting when it resumes a spirit “cavalier” in a nice smooth brown leather and has a nice rounded.
How to wear boots chelsea?
Dressed Set: shirt and flannel pants in navy blue shades with mahogany chelsea-simple and effective. In casual, jeans, shirt and voila! A reminder of the leather belt can be also welcome.
Easy model for every occasion!
Where to find chelsea boots?
- €: Loding offers an affordable range input of 180 €.
- €€: Atelier Voisin worked a chelsea boot in a spirit roots for 300 €.
- €€€: Barnabera manufactures beautiful classic models for about 600 €.
Most adventurer: the wingtip boot
Superb alternative to chelsea, the wingtip boot, however, remains more confidential. Halfway between the boot and derby battle, it often takes a Goodyear mounting. Its leather is perforated to ennoble, can the icing to go further in the spirit dressed.
It has the great advantage of being stylish enough to fit a formal, casual and reasonably if you want to magnify a raw denim jeans or even velvet trousers2.
How to wear wingtip boots?
As casual as usual, denim works well with a top stitch; a shirt or a shirt, though this style of shoes is more suitable in winter.
Dressed in version I like the idea to continue playing on the ambivalence with relaxation starting on a textured wool suit, coupled with a chambray shirt.
Where to find wingtip boots?
- €: Herring was a well-made model to 185 €.
- €€: Loake begins with styles of classic wingtip to £ 240.
- €€€: Carmina offers models in cordovan around € 890. Not to mention the wingtips ofAlden genuine cordovan.
The more casual: the desert / chukka boots for men
Comfort, unique line, timelessness: no mistaking facing a desert boot . This shoe with rounded lines acquired the coveted status of basic of menswear.
La desert boot
It is characterized by several elements, starting with its crepe sole is both flexible and comfortable. Purists insist evoke an elaborate shoe suede. Summer or winter, it is true that the suede or nubuck dominate this family.
However, as you can imagine, it is not really dressed and adapts poorly formal trousers.
This is a more chic version incorporating the same rounded. They are ennobled by a leather sole, sometimes mounted Blake but also in Goodyear. The result is thinner, especially since it often manufactures from smooth leather.
Even great shoemakers have appropriated this piece, practical for everyday wear.
Comment porter des desert / chukka boots ?
Let simple: the desert boot fits very well in a context rather cool …
Where the desert / chukka boots?
- €: Obviously Clarks, whose prices start at € 130.
- €€: Kurt Geiger fate all year chukka models in suede and leather sole in 230 €.
- €€€: John Lobb, ready-to-fit, has beautiful models from € 1,100.
The special case of high boots
Just for fun, we’ll talk about high boots. I discovered that existed for men when passing in a luxury shop: a great pair of riding style boots sat proudly in the center of the shoe space. My curiosity took over, I’ve tried.
Obviously, it is very quickly out of context and I would not see me wear. However, I was struck by the incredible elegance they bring. As for the cape man, I think it could be a piece likely to occur again …