Shoe Construction Techniques

Blake, Norwegian, Veldtschoen, Baraquette, etc.

the names are many and varied, and it is sometimes difficult to navigate.

Here we will go through all different timelines with which our expensive shoes are made.

Being the most comprehensive possible I hope to learn some things to the amateur warns nice shoes.

But also to allow one who puts a foot in this universe to be able to see more clearly and be able to buy the most appropriate shoes to its expectations and its budget.

The issue of editing, since the dawn of time, anime discussions between fans of beautiful shoes: in shops, in the bistro of the corner, but also on the forums of enthusiasts.

If you expect an answer, decided to find out what the best you won’t find here for the simple reason that I believe that this question has no meaning.

Each Assembly its advantages and disadvantages that I will try to list here so that this article is the most complete and objective as possible!

Do not see in order a choice of preference: I put them in alphabetical order.

Montages of Shoes: a Guarantee of Quality

For the calceophiles (if you don’t learn anything in this article maybe I’ll get you at least learned the existence of that Word) this article will probably take an amount of information that you already know.

But I have a few tricks up my sleeves which I think will complement what you already know, so don’t leave immediately!

For others it is a must.

Now that you know what true quality leather, the way your shoes are mounted is the second criterion, which will allow you to know if they are really worth their price and if they are suitable for the use you plan to make.

A sewn sole will allow you to keep your shoes well longer.

Unlike glue, sewing does not break down to the contact of water and has a higher mechanical resistance (even if today the glues used are quite impressive resistance).

But above all, the presence of sewn soles, will allow you to make resoling your shoes.

If you buy shoes made in high quality leather there is a strong chance that the mounting of the sole makes the soul before the leather and it would be a shame to have to throw away them right?

Be aware that different shoes, beyond qualitative fixtures, have, among other things, affect the price, comfort, waterproof and style.

You understand that according to the use you plan to make a montage of your pair of shoes will be more suitable than another and it is complicated to classify them.

Finally I think that he shouldn’t be killed on a type of mounting.

Manufacturers have understood that with the proliferation of information sources we are more and more educated.

So they offer shoes made with ‘fixtures stars’ forums and other blogs.

The problem is that the quality of production depends on the materials used and the know-how of the manufacturer.

ATTENTION not simply be pulled by a label.

Be sure to trust to a House that realizes its fixtures in the rules of the art and not to will soon just to be able to put a name snoring on his shoes.

Mounting Sewn Blake

This is probably the most common and the most maligned editing seen quality gaps found according to the manufacturers.

When it is done by hand by a Bootmaker given name sewn inside out (or sewn through or sewn to the other).

In its industrial version (understand carried out using a machine guided by man) given name sewn Blake. Name of Lyman Reed Blake inventor of the said machine.


After pasting the sole to the stem mounted on form we’ll sew together the stem, the first and the outsole.

In the case of good editing Blake this sewing will be done under burning (so invisible when we look at the sole) with a wire smeared (for a better waterproofing).

For extra strength sewing will be conducted with two sons in point of shuttle (as opposed to the point of chain).

On our shoes, in addition to the above, we are pushing to put a first complete.

This isn’t to make you believe that our shoes are made with another fixture (it is written black on white on our products pages) but simply because, without this I personally sewing Blake feels too much at the level of the small toes.

Yes I’m cozy feet. A first complete cleanliness can alleviate this feeling and thus improving the comfort.

The type of wire used, the type of stitch, burning or not, the know-how of the artisan, etc. are all points that can save time and money in the realization of this Assembly.

This is why we explain the large difference in quality that may be encountered with a sewn montage Blake.

The main complaint that this Assembly is the inability to perform a rebuild.

It’s fake! 

It is possible to repair a shoe mounted with a sewn Blake.

The problem is that it is almost impossible to iron in the same holes. They are hidden by the new sole.

Suddenly the Shoemaker will have to make a new hole which will weaken the stem and therefore limit the number of possible re-heeled.

The advantage of editing Blake is its flexibility: in shoes stitched this way there is a very short period to make them and you will quickly feel good inside.


The rapid blake (also called sewn mixed). Compared to the Blake added a midsole (ie: stuck between the outsole and the first clean.)

Blake sewing coming tie the stem, the first clean and this midsole together.

In addition add a seam visible dots all around the shoe that binds together soles wear and intermediate.

This type of arrangement is sometimes used by the manufacturers of the unscrupulous to make a sewn montage Goodyear, which is longer – and therefore more costly to achieve.

As I mentioned in my article explaining How to recognize a quality shoe, you just reach inside the shoe to feel the seam Blake.

I will pass on the mounting pegged wood that is no longer used today or simply-very rarely-from an aesthetic point of view because it is associated with a sewing small points.

Sewn montage Bolognese

I could present it as a variant of the sewn Blake. But as it is quite common I preferred to devote a paragraph in its own right.

The difference with the Blake is that it does not first clean. This is the rod that goes all around the foot like a tube.

Therefore found seam out within mounting Blake who will tie the stem with the outsole. On this point we find the same quality standards as the ones I mentioned above.


We’ll come shoot the lining after the have mounted form then we’ll sew it on itself underneath so that it takes the right shape.

Then we just do the same thing with the top just stick, underneath, on the lining.

Then remove the shape. The outsole is stuck in order to implement (display) to then realize the couture Blake.

The absence of editing first (generally rigid enough because made leather croupon) will give shoes made with this setup a very flexible and immediate comfort.

On the other hand, of its nature, it is fragile and not going to last years.

History tells us that this type of installation is known for a long time, but it was popularized in the United States during the second world war.

Its simplicity made it can be achieved with the same machine used to sting the stems.

This was a favorite choice in a time or priority, the machines were used by the army.

Also found under the name of Mount mandarin or slip l casting in English.


We’ll steal the stem as well as the sheath of coating on a cleanliness first that support so all the editing.

Then mounted on form and the sheath of coating will be folded and glued on a midsole.

Then we just stick the outsole.

The editing is so up to a single seam supported by the first clean.

Associated with a padded midsole gives a very flexible mounting.

Too soft because it will deform very quickly.

This simplicity and the fact that there is no need to have a specific machine for sewing to get an inexpensive mounting to achieve.

Given its flexibility it is mainly used for indoor shoes.

If you ever see it on other models I recommend you to go your way!

Sewn Assembly Goodyear

Here is the other popular Assembly and found on a majority of pairs of shoes.

In the four corners of the globe praise its merits.

However caution.

This is the downside of the hype.

Some manufacturers have understood the interest of consumers for this Assembly and they abuse.

Between the simulated goodyear, which is actually a simple glued sole or the goodyear made to va soon with materials more doubtful he shouldn’t rush headlong.

When it is done by hand by a Bootmaker called sewn Welt.

The name goodyear is given to its industrial implementation assisted by a machine.

Here again the name of its inventor.

If you ask the question: Yes, there is a link with the tires. It is the son of Charles Goodyear , who invented this machine.

Sacred family huh?


We’re here on a mount with double seams.

First we do a first side seam (is it called Goodyear) invisible once the finished shoe.

It will allow to link together the stem, the Welt and the first mounting through the wall.

Is he the one who ensures the soundness of the package.

We realize that by burning the first either by reporting it on her.

In a second time let’s attach the building created with the outsole.

There is a second seam, called “dots”, coming to bind the Welt to the outsole.

As for the sewn Blake we’ll find derivatives of some manufacturers.

Seams made with a thread chainstitch and not with two sons in shuttle point.

The use of son of bad qualities, sewing small points perhaps under burning or not, etc.

Technically they can still speak a Goodyear montage, but in reality, differences in achievement are really impressive.

There are some subtleties in the realization of this Assembly at the level of the heel of the shoes:

  • editing will be said baraquette if the Welt and therefore sewing dots all the way around the shoe, including heel.
  • We’re talking English heel when the Welt stops at the heel. In this case the stem, the first and the sole will be so bound by pegs.

Its main advantage over the Blake that he often opposed it is the resoling.

To change the sole Shoemaker will simply undo the seam small points and therefore never touch the rod.

The downside – Yes there are at least one – is that the Welt leaves a very small passage through which water may, in the long run, enter.
Note: you can lightly grease this interstice when maintaining your shoes to limit the penetration of water.


The mounting Storm Welt : in this case the Welt is trimmed in Y on the edge leaning against the rod (it looks like this:-< )).

The low branch of the Y will be used towards side seam Goodyear while the upper branch of the Y will come to press against the rod and will so improve the tightness of installation compared to its classic realization.
Note: this process is little used for mounting the appellation Stormwelt Goodyear is more often used as translation intoEnglish of the Norwegian Assembly.

I am going on the Goodyear without first editing (the flex goodyear) because I do not understand the interest to achieve complex and expensive mounting for, ultimately, a little resistant shoe.

Mounting sewn moccasin

Legend has it that its name comes from the moccasins worn by native Americans that inspired the creation of his editing.

It can be found also under the names of tubular Assembly or full.

Attention today called moccasins or loafers are rarely made with this arrangement but more generally in sewn Blake or Goodyear.

Or even just stuck in some cases.


The piece of leather which is used first goes back on the sides to form the bottom of the stem.

We just sew a second piece of leather that will be used to achieve the plateau. The sole will be then sewn or glued.

The connection of the plateau can be made in different ways: by machine, by hand, attached at the edge.

You easily understand the advantages of this Assembly no?

It is very flexible and very light. This is especially true for models that are made without hard piece.

On the other hand it is a montage which is quite tight and that isolates evil of the irregularities of the ground.

We therefore used generally for summer shoes very comfortable to wear in favourable weather conditions (ie. in holiday in the Sun).

Norwegian Sewn Montage

As for the sewn Assembly Goodyear we’re here in the presence of mounting two seams.

The big difference is that this time the two seams are visible.

This is a montage that has become quite rare (although it is a home to several houses).


Always the same thing: its implementation is slow and complex, so expensive.

He should know that a Norwegian montage with Welt may require approximately 800 stitches and several days of work.

We’re in the presence of a very robust package that offers a perfect seal to the shoe.

It is often used for the campaign or work shoes that will be used in difficult conditions.


So, we have a first horizontal seam that will link the stem and the Welt to the first Assembly.

It is called “Norwegian” or “first pass”.

The second seam is, as for the Goodyear a vertical seam tell small points that will bind the Welt to the outsole.

Attention to the excesses of some manufacturers that can offer this Assembly, also very popular, with a realization and questionable materials.

Some manufacturers paint shoes sewn Blake adding purely decorative seams, often braided to a Norwegian montage.

Although it can be done without Welt, the sewn Norwegian, aiming to make waterproof shoe will be more often made with a Welt (folded: the flesh side of the Welt relies on the flower of the rod leather) and a heel baraquette (the Welt does all the Tower of the shoe).

When it is performed with a Welt also called Goiser (the name of the Austrian town or it would have been invented), Tyrolean or Swedish Assembly.

In this idea of insulation and sealing we also cross-referencing with a double sole.

This means we just put a midsole (in-between or mid-sole in English) between the first Assembly and the outsole.

The presence of the double sole allows better insulation from the cold from the ground.

In this case there are two types of achievements:

  • fashion dots is simple and binding together the first, between and the outsole.
  • She is double: first sewing assembles the first Assembly and the midsole. A second seam connects the first Assembly, the in-between and the outsole.

The advantages of this arrangement are multiple:

  • If the leather used for the stem is good we’re in the presence of shoes that can be described as indestructible.
  • the actual is, of course possible and unlimited.
  • the footwear deforms little and the shoes are completely watertight.


Sewn braided: it is a simple sewn Norwegian on which ‘fun’ to interleave the wires of the first seam.

It brings no resistance and more. It is purely aesthetic (and it must be admitted that the record is very nice).

Sewn montage Veldtschoen.

Pretty close to mounting Norwegian but sufficiently distant and interesting to have its own paragraph!

He is also realized with two seams.

The translation means “shoe campaign.

Translated from what? The language spoke Dutch farmers emigrated to South Africa who attributed the invention of this more airtight than the sewn montage Goodyear.


In the best-known version, turn the stem to the outside edge (while inwardly she enters Assembly Goodyear) at the level of the Welt that is on the sole and we cost all together.

If the wire is smeared so closed the passage to the water and it makes the shoe waterproof.

Of course there is also the side seam that goes it, bind the first Assembly to the lining and the Welt

As for Norwegian mounting sewing dots may double if we add or not a midsole.

The advantage of this arrangement is simple: a waterproof shoe. That’s also why it was invented.


A variant of this arrangement has been developed by Lotus (one of the major English producers of the beginning of the 20th century).

In this variant we use a double stem (two layers of leather).

We separate them by a reinforcement (stiffer than a double).

The outer layer is folded outwards as explained above.

The inner layer comes to slip between the first of cleanliness and the midsole.

The reinforcement comes to rest on this last (it does not slip on the inside).

Because Yes, in this variant added a midsole (so two rapid on the outer part of the Welt seams).

Add to that a side seam between the wall of the first and the Welt which by the way takes so the two layers of leather and reinforcement, and you get what?

A shoe with a perfect sealing.

For the record the merchant was, in the window of his store, a shoe made with this montage in a bucket of water to demonstrate that she was perfectly sealed.

The complexity of realization but especially the profitability concern exacerbated with the invention of vulcanization brought down this montage to oblivion.

Returned sewn montage

The interest of this Assembly?

Not much if it isn’t to say that there is a seam to sell more expensive shoes.


I asked a bunch of coating (or the sole directly) on the form on which we just burn (most often ask) a wall mounting.

We go up the stem on the form (she also upside down).

This means that the lining is outside.

Sewing by hand or machine, all this together?

Just remove the form and to “return” the shoe (where the name of the Assembly).

This requires the use of very soft for the sole material or coating Strip.

Once returned, the shoe is back on form in order to give it the right volume.

We have to do here in very simple and quick Assembly to realize which allows very flexible shoes.

Sandalette sewn montage


It is a construction that is very simple to achieve.

We just cast off the stem outward on the first.

Then then we sew together the stem, the first and the outsole with a seam in point of chain.

We can distinguish:

  • a project with a simple seam.
  • another with two coulters. One between the first and the stem, the other which binds the sole and possibly a false Welt.


The mounting San Crispino: as before you fold the stem outward.

Then we wrapped, with a bumper, the stem and the first.

Then with a single or double seams we tie it all together.

Sometimes the seams will also take the outsole but, more often, the latter will be simply pasted.

Here are various fixtures of the shoes that you can find.

Originally I planned a part on montages pasted (or welded), injected and Vulcanized, but given the length of the article I prefer to stop the.

Especially as these fixtures, invented more recently, are not of interest for beautiful shoes and are often reserved for entry-level models or typed (sport, etc.).

I hope that you will not hold me this lack rigour.