Shoes – Made to Order

Investing in a pair of quality shoes makes the details extra important. But it’s far from always there are models that match the same criteria. An option that starts to attract interest is Made to order where the customer himself designs the look of his shoes. Manolo is having a snack with Tony Gaziano, one founder of British Gaziano & Girling who since last autumn offers the service in Sweden.

Made To Order (MTO) means that the customer himself designs the look of his shoes by choosing read, model, sole, leather and other small details such as recessed toe iron and special requests for the finish of the shoes. However, it is important to distinguish MTO from customized shoes (in English Bespoke) where a personalized read is made for each customer. The standard Masters are used for MTO and the production itself is identical to the shoes bought from the shelf.

In Sweden, Crockett & Jones and Gaziano & Girling MTO Services currently offer. For Crockett & Jones, however, this is a very small part of the business and, as a customer, you can count double the price against buying a model directly from the store’s range. For Gaziano & Girling, which produces only 2000 pairs of shoes per year, MTO means a significant part of the brand’s total production. In Sweden, Gaziano & Girling’s MTO service is currently offered at Hans Allde in Stockholm and Davidsons Skomakeri in Uppsala.

– In terms of fit, there is no difference from buying shoes directly from the shelf. The big advantage is that the shoes are completely unique. It’s hard for a smaller shop and shoemaker to keep a warehouse that suits everyone,”said scout Marcus Davidson.

Tony Gaziano, who is one half behind Gaziano & Girling, also emphasizes that Made to Order should not be equated with the following:

– Set to design and fit is Made To Order identical to Ready To Wear. What we have done at Gaziano & Girling is that we have taken many of the manufacturing methods used in the Bespoke tradition and used these for standard guests. Unlike many other British manufacturers of rugged shoes using mechanical Goodyear construction, the construction of our shoes is completely hand-held. Both me and Dean (Dean Girling, remark) have a background in bespoke and advocate the footnote shape that this technology allows.  

How Does It Look Like The Shape Of The Cut?

“Basically, it is about the creation of the actual lessons. The vast majority of shakers today employ an external readers who read a reading primarily based on design requirements. We design our readers themselves and place great emphasis on getting a reading that looks good and creates a comfortable form. This, together with a more flexible construction, creates a perfect result

What Are Your Tips For The Year To Order A Pair Of Shoes Made To Order?

– Start by looking in the wardrobe to see the clothes color and style. Many may get a little excited by seeing that the pair shoe on the shelf and then discover that the shoes do not fit their own clothes. Then it is obviously important to think about when and how the shoes will be used. Is there a pair of distinctive winter shoes the customer wants may not be fool and leather sole to recommend. The model itself is more of a taste, but I am personally a warm supporter of oxfords, which in my opinion is the perfect depiction of the shape of the foot. It is difficult to get the same accuracy with a pair of loafers or derbys.

– In the case of the fit, it is important that the shoes fit well around the waist of the foot and heel without having to leave and that there is little space in the toe part. A very common mistake is that many compensate wide feet by choosing an excessive size. I’ve been with customers who wear shoes in size 44 normal but that actually equate to 42 in broader width. To a large extent, it is about getting the right guide from the seller in the store. Many sellers unfortunately lack the knowledge about the proportions of the foot and how the shoes should be sitting without focusing solely on selling.

Finally, You Also Work With Custom-Made Manufacturing. How Do You Look At The Future For This?

It is very difficult to predict. Added to the other British Bespoke shoemakers like George Cleverley, WS Foster & Son and John Lobb, I’m worried that the majority of those working are around 70 years old and the supply of new craftsmanship is very low. I’m glad that everyone working with us is under 45. Then I think we’ll see more of French shoemakers who have a better apprenticeship system to carry on the craft.