Understanding Shoe Construction

There are two main types of construction sewn for shoes: the Blake and the Goodyear Assembly.

Editing Blake

It is rather thin and is more fragile. It gives a slim foot shape and is generally used for the pairs of which the tip is a bit sharp. The outsole is stitched directly to the insole (so it is impossible to change the outsole).

These shoes support less moisture, rain and snow. So go look in the relatively high-end to find sustainable Blake constructions: types Santoni, Caulaincourt and Berluti brands are safe values. But we’re shooting at least around 300 euros.

Assembly Goodyear

In order to strengthen the seam, we add a strip of leather between the two thicker leathers: it’s called the Welt. Thus, inner and outer soles are sewn to the Welt. Just remove it to change the sole of the shoe.

So that means the leather is usually good quality: it is expected to last longer than the sole, that can change. This isn’t the case on the Blake fixtures.

The shoe care

The worst thing you can do? Wear your shoes absolutely every day without ever hydrate, Polish or even take them see the cobbler. And, even with a pair of John Lobb at 850 euros, you’ll look a neglected who doesn’t pay attention to his appearance.

This is so a few simple, but important principles:
-Never run with (even if you have to catch a train;)
-always use the shoe (Bexley brand is a reference for it);
-buy them instead of when you buy your shoes, to not procrastinate it;
-never wear the same pair every day: the leather must be able to evacuate moisture;
-avoid the rain and snow;
-moisturize your pair once a week, and systematically if they were caught in the rain. Shoe polish brands Sapphire, dapple and Famaco have proved their worth, as well as the balm Renapur. However avoid brands of entry such as Kiwi and banana using silicone, this laminated and asphyxiation leather.
-take your shoes to the Shoemaker at the first sign of wear (sole that comes off or seams that come apart);
-wear your shoes two weeks to ease the sole and only then ask a Skate in rubber or in pancake (the famous TOPY): you won’t pay much and it will really improve the life expectancy of your shoes.

The final word: to do once a week

Brush: a quick enough soft brush will be enough to remove the dust and mud.

Hydrate: With either of the shoe cream, or simply moisturizing milk for the body.
Drop a bit on a cloth (or any piece of cloth), apply with circular movements until everything to be absorbed by the shoe. Wait for it to dry (approximately 5 minutes), then rub it with another piece of fabric dry.

You have all the ingredients on hand to choose a nice pair of shoes and take care, don’t let so take the dust and wear the proudly so that it becomes an integral part of your style.

And to go further…

If you’re looking for more advice in menswear, you can discover the male blog Our site.