Who can go one day without shoes? And who wants to do without them, when they are found in so many great colors, shapes and sizes!
Shoes follow you wherever you go – on the run, on vacation, at work, in school, to party … They are all here in this category! Whether you are looking for a pair of comfortable Nike sneakers or shoes for the more festive occasions as a pair of stilettos or high-heeled boots and even for the maternity are up to you.
In this category are waiting for you thousands of shoes, so start your plan here. One thing is certain: you can never have too many shoes – you can always use an extra pair to match the new handbag.
There is a shoe for every occasion – maybe even two if you’re lucky – so there are no excuses for not going to explore in this category. Whether they should fit into your jeans, dress or mood, it is entirely up to your imagination.
Construction of Shoes
One of the most popular posts of the Blog is about the construction of goodyear welted. Today I’ll share some other techniques of construction of shoes that I found interesting. This post is an aggregate of information, a resumão of what I read. If you have some general reading, I apologize if you swap the balls. Please leave a comment for me to update the post.
- Construction Goodyear Welted: a welt is stitched to the uppers and insole assembly. Then the outsole is stitched to the welt.
- Blaqueado / Blake Stitch: single stitching joins the outsole, the leather and the insole assembly.
- A mixture. The “Blake/Rapid”: A seam through the inside of the shoe and secures the outsole, insole fitting and leather. The other is on the outside and holds the outsole and the welt.
Now comes some other discoveries and diagrâmas. I’m trying to understand the images to explain it better but nothing is in Portuguese. Someone indicates a book in Portuguese? I I have no idea how they are called in Portuguese, but the English call it one thing, the italians another, and so on…
1) Norwegian / Norvogese (Norwegian):
Apparently this technique is not very well defined. Traditionally, the construction involves turning the leather of the uppers to the outside and then sew it to the sole. Some shoemakers use a turn, but there are times that the seam turns is classified as another style.
The advantage of this technique is to block further passage of water. We currently have shoes glued together, and the sidewalks of the concrete to keep the feet dry and the shoes more clean but in the past, the streets of Norway were to be muddy, full of puddles, humidity and snow. People faced all this with shoes hand-sewn, and the people of the region found a solution with this methods smart.
The japanese seem to love the technique because I found a lot of images by classifying the styles. In the terminology that they use, there is the “norwegian” (with the seam side underneath the insole), and “norvegese” (with the side seam directly in the insole).
Also differentiate the use of turns like “welted norwegian”, but this would not be a true Norwegian because the leather is not facing out (or maybe it is, and I’m not understanding the image):
From left to right, starting from top clockwise: Norwegian Construction, Norwegian Welted Construction, Norvese Construction, Reverse Welted Construction.
It was difficult to understand what is the difference between the Reverse Welted and Norwegian Welt, which are very similar in the picture: The Norwegian Welt stitching is attached to a “channel” which is opened manually in the footbed assembly. Has an arrow on the Reverse which indicates that an attachment point has been inserted and glued to the insole to hold the seam, which is made by a machine. In this post, we are going to ignore this nomenclature.
The Norwegian has at least two, and sometimes three rows of stitching. Unlike the Goodyear machine), or a shoe palmilhado (welted) manually, the stitches of these seams are apparent rather than one of them to stay in hiding:
This is a diagram of the Bettanin & Venturi, which also uses three points.
This is a diagram of the Piergiacomi, which also uses three seams.
In all these cases, the common feature is that the leather is facing out.
This construction can have sewing braided, but is not required. Some people like to use this external stitching, which can only be done manually, to show his skill with the line.
2) Tirolese / Norwegian Welted / Goiserer
It is a name that some manufacturers use for the Norwegian with the turns. The main difference is that it uses a turn in the shape of “L”, and is placed outside between the sole and the leather. This building has two visible seams: welt stitched to the shoe and welt in the sole. Also called the “Norwegian welt”, or the building of the “Goiserer” in Austria. It would be the figure on the right in the top row, that first image of japan.
The construction Veldtschoen is very similar to the above technique. In both cases the leather is folded and stitched into the sole. If the descriptions that I have read are correct, the biggest difference is that in the shoes Veldschoen there is a turn down of the leather folded, and not over the top. On the left, the “Stitchdown”, which from what I understand it is a simple method used for example by the Clarks Desert Boots.
This other picture also shows that this method “Veldtschoen” is a more elaborated version of the type of sewing that Clarks uses in the desert boots. The leather is also facing to the outside and a line of stitching is exposed. In some cases the leather that is on the outside is creased and trimmed, leaving the shoe with the face of a goodyear, because one of the seams is hidden. The intention was also to increase the waterproofness of the shoe, for this was/is used a lot in shoes and field boots.
Conclusion: The term “Norwegian”/”Norvese”/”Goiserer” seem to be vague. There is not an exact pattern, and each shoemaker has their version with small variations. The point in common between them is that the leather facing out, and the seam that runs along the side of the shoe. It is a construction that is super tough that waterproofs the boot or shoe.
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